K.I.T.T.s CPU A Real Possibility

Way back when the television show Knight Rider was on, K.I.T.T. was the "Car of The Future". Much in today technology has changed, things have gotten smaller and yet more powerful. Today computers are so much more advanced and smaller now than ever before. In the T.V. show K.I.T.T.s CPU was featured as a small box that fit into the palm of your hand. There are many such very powerful computers on the market today that are about the same size that can be easily made to look like K.I.T.T.s CPU like the ones in this article I came across.

UPDATE: April 5, 2016

My sweetie found out about this while watching some YouTube last night and although I knew about Rasberry Pi and was wondering about the possibility of using it to run our Knight O.S. app looking at this link makes me think it could be possible.
https://www.indiegogo.com/projects/poco-micro-computer-multi-function-pi-gadget#/

Dash Auxiliary Power Button

I have a better way of hooking up my dash auxiliary power button as right now the way I have it is a bit daffy and I'll explain why; The scenario works but what happens is that say I have the auxiliary power button turned on and I forget that it is on and then I turn over the cars ignition, well when I turn off the ignition key the car will keep running because power is still being supplied through the lower consoles auxiliary dash power button being turned on, I would then need to switch that off in order to turn the car off. This way is much better because that can't happen as the dash can only get it's power from one source or the other via the relay and not both at the same time which is how I currently have it wired.

A Better Relays Board Installed

It took me a little while to install he new relays board I made with Rectifier Bridge Diodes before each of the relays in order to cure that problem I was having with the SFX module I had put together. I had to do a fair amount of shuffling things around on my stock dash to make things fit right. (left).

You may recall from earlier posts when I was working on my Voice Projection Unit that I had the on/off button hooked up to a Step Relay that was located about where my new relays board is now. What I ended up doing was moving the Step Relay to the same location as the on/off button for the V.P. Unit and mounting it behind the panel that the button is mounted too (right). I also made up a small Rectifier Diode Bridge module with terminal blocks that I could easily wire up to between the on/off button to the Step Relay and mounting that in behind the panel as well. I like it a lot better now because when you press the V.P. button the loud click from the Step Relay is right behind where the switch is located and not on the other side of the dash like before, so in many way it makes more sense this way.

A Better Relay board

This is a much nicer relays board than my last one which was more for experimentation more than anything just to see if certain things were going to work the way I wanted them too. This new one I put together is better laid out, has more relays on the board and more terminals for the DTMF request from the Voice Box. The board is a little shorter than my old one width wise but a little higher height wise but given that it better made and has more on it I'll be able to work that under the passenger side of the dash a lot easier than my last set up. This new board also has Rectifier Diode Bridges built in before each relay so this will eliminate the problem I was having with switches that activated relays interrupting my SFX module when the relays were switched off. I'm a little fuzzy on how that works exactly but it works and it cured the problem so that is what counts. ;)

SFX Module Installation

I have a few of the SFX wired up in the car like the Turboboost sound, K.I.T.T.s introduction and the two Knight Rider themes (Narrated and Un-Narrated). The Turboboost SFX is connected to my switch pods Turboboost button and the other two or I should say 3 SFX are connected to my Space Matt buttons. The two Knight Rider themes are on the same SFX pin on the Adafruit board so they are hooked up to one button.

After hooking up those few SFX out in the car and giving it a test I did notice something unusual that happens, the SFX all play fine when the buttons are pressed but while the SFX is playing if you hit another button the SFX stops or seems to reset, which is odd considering I have not yet connected up the reset pin wire. I have a hunch that I may need to add in some rectifier diodes into my wiring scheme and see if that cures the issue. I think my SFX module might be getting some kind of signal backwash from the other buttons so I'm hoping that the diodes should correct that. I'll do some experimenting today and see. lol it's funny how things work awesome on the bench until you actually install it into the car along with all the other electronics and then discover annoying little issues like this ;)

Arduino Radar Project

I'll bet this data could be worked somehow in Unity to draw a working radar screen,

Adafruit Mini SFX Board With TDA2030A Amp. Module UPDATE

I combined the Optocouplers board for the button inputs for my Space Matt buttons by soldering it onto the other piece of Protoboard that I had already attached the Adafruit SFX mini and TDA2030A Mini Amplifier boards onto. I soldered the inputs for the Optocouplers to 3mm screw terminal blocks to make connecting the wires from my Space Matt buttons easier later on when I install this module into my K.I.T.T.

There are a few things left to do like add in the power regulator to convert 12V into 5V for the Adafruit board, right now I just have one 100 uF Capacitor soldered onto the board seeing how I had it on hand, I still need to add a 10 uF Cap. and a small ceramic 100 nF cap to go with the power regulator but those are minor details that just basically involve waiting for them to arrive in the mail. Now the Optocoupler board you see mounted onto my main board also sends a pulse for the DTMF tone request on the Voice Box through a wire that will be connected to the screw terminal block mounted on the lower right side of the board (above left). I have four more sound effects options that do not require a pulse to be sent to the DTMF because they will be wired to the Switch Pod buttons and they already have a tone request being sent from the Switch Pod buttons. So I'll see if I can squeeze in four more Optocouplers onto the board somewhere for those loose green wires you see sticking out of the left side of the main board next to the Adafruit module and see if I can also squeeze in two more 3mm screw terminal blocks, it's going to be tight but I think I can do it, if not then I'll just have to add in another side board with the Optocouplers on it.

In the meantime to make things easier for me to install this module when completed I worked out a diagram to illustrate where all the pin outs are located on the module (right). It's coming together though just a few more things to do and then I can wire it up for a test in the car before seeing about perhaps stuffing this into an enclosure to make for a nice install.