Getting The Annunciator Loudspeaker Ready To Install

I have all of my wires attached to the Annunciator Loudspeaker to make it ready to install into the front nose of my K.I.T.T. I soldered on the wires, taped them and applied Heat shrink tubing to help keep out the elements. All I need to do is drill some holes for the bolts into the front nose support plate. I think some people call it a "Slam Plate" ?? Not sure why. Once I have it bolted on I can run the wires in through the Firewall. I think what I will do is see if I can run the wires for the Annunciator Sound Board in through the same rubber grommet that the Speed Sensor cable runs through for the Cyberdyne unit. I'll run the Red Power wire down the battery side of the car and see if I can run it through that hole the old Antenna wire used just behind the passenger side Air Extractor vent, it getting a little crowded that hole but I'll see if I can safely fit one more wire through there. Then I can run that Power wire to the Red wire from my Voice Projection Unit Button. The Ground Wire on the Loudspeaker will just get bolted to the Chassis somewhere.

I'm still waiting for my 100 Amp In-line Fused Breaker Switch but I'll bet considering that I have ONLY the one 100W Annunciator Loudspeaker hooked up to my 2nd Fuse Panel that I could just for now and just for testing hook up one of the Inline AGU 40 Amp Fuse Holder and run that with My Fuse Panel to the Battery, just for testing until the 100 Amp one comes.

I've heard that these 40 Amp AGU In-line Fuses can run a little hot and fail so I'm somewhat wary about that news. My initial investigations did not uncover anything like that so I'll need to clearly do some more investigation into these AGU Fuses and Holders and make sure they are safe to use. If anyone has had experience with these your comments would be most welcome below.

Fuse Block Wiring

I started to wire the additional Fuse Block that I have installed onto the back of the passenger side Hush Panel. Right now I just have the once circuit for the Annunciator External Loudspeaker wired. I have a 10 Amp Blade Fuse in the block for this circuit which should be good enough for the 100W Annunciator Loudspeaker as it's only drawing around just shy of 8 Amps. I still have to install that into the nose of the car though.


I have my wire running from the fuse block into a four terminal block that I can mount the wires to using Ring Terminals crimped onto the ends of the wires from the fuse block and then screwed onto the Terminal Block, this way the install should be easier if I ever need to change something later on down the road as this projects gains complexity.

I ran the Red 10 AWG wire through the same hole that the old Antenna wire went through just behind the side Air Extractor Vent, up inside the fender and across to where it will eventually be hooked to the battery through an in-line fused circuit breaker rated at 100 Amps, this will protect the entire block and as mentioned in previous posts it will allow me to disable that entire block right at the battery by tripping the breaker. Very handy for any car shows I may do.

Here is a little video I made earlier today showing a little more about what I have done here, Enjoy. ;)

Voice Projection Unit Alternative Ground Hookup

After doing a little experimenting yesterday I realized that this is another option for hooking up the ground wire for the Annunciator Loudspeaker. It's simple and will save running extra wire depending on how far away you are placing your loudspeaker from the Voice Projection unit on/off button.

Indicator LED Lens and Microphone Grill Added Into Upper Console

I installed the LED Indicator light lens for the Annunciator sound board into the Upper Console. Drilled a hole and then filed it to fit the lens. I cut out a hole for the microphone and snipped out a small piece of speaker grill I had kicking about. I glassed the grill over the microphone hole to secure it in really well.

The next step will be to mount in that small piece of circuit board with the microphone and indicator LED attached to it over where the LED lens and microphone hole is located. Once that's done I just need to loom the wires up nice and secure. I still need to determine a good place under the hood to install the Annunciator loudspeaker as I know I'm more than likely going to need to lengthen it's wires, seems they never give you enough length of wire on any of that stuff... lol then again I guess they never figure someone is going to be installing it in such a way as I am here. ;)

Installing The Annunciator Sound Board Into The Upper Console

As part of my process of installing the Annunciator sound board into the Upper Console I needed a cover lens for my indicator light showing the system active so I picked up a small warning or indicator light. I just needed the plastic lens cover from the light so I removed the tiny light bulb, the stem was a tiny bit too tall so a cut of about a 16th of an inch off of the bottom to make it fit better over my indicator LED that I relocated from the Annunciator sound board to this smaller board for easier relocation into the Upper Console. I also made a paper cone to fit over the microphone to help capture the sound better when it's installed into the Upper Console.

I was careful to make my microphone cone have the same height of the indicator light stem. Here you can see it being put together, currently glued and held together with little mini spring clamps until the glue dries. Next step was to paint the microphone cone with a flat black to seal it, I did a couple of good coats of flat black to create a good seal.

Once the pain on the cone was dry I glued it onto the base of the microphone with a generous amount of Contact Cement to make sure it stays put when the board is secured into the Upper Console next to the Annunciator sound board.

In order to install the Annunciator sound board into the Upper Console I had to make some Aluminum mounting brackets, I first carefully made paper templates to test how they would fit against the board without interfering with any of the electrical components or board tracks. Once satisfied they were good it was out to the garage to cut them out of some Aluminum pieces I had kicking around.

Once cut out and filed the Aluminum brackets could then be mounted to the sound board. I used some short bolts, washers and rubber washers to fit the brackets onto the sides of the sound board.

Getting this particular board into the Upper Console was a bit of a pain, simply because of the Volume Control wheel. It had to fit into a slot I had cut out in the Console for it to fit into. If this was just a matter of mounting an electronics board I would have just glued in the mounting brackets with Contact Cement, waited for that to dry and then glassed them into place. This was a little more tricky because of it's careful positioning. 

Once it was successfully test fitted into the Upper Console I was ready to use some fibre glass resin to secure the sound board and mounting brackets assembly into the Console. 

Right now I just have it secured into place with a little resin only. I'll let this set really well and then add some layers of fibre glass matting tomorrow just to give the mounting brackets a lot more strength.

The next step will be to make some mounting brackets for the separate small board I did up for the microphone and indicator light and then make a hole for the lens cover for the indicator light and secure that into place, I'll also need to make a hole for the microphone and make some kind of cover plate for that to make it look more attractive and look the part.  I'll also install a small momentary button for the microphone too and install that into the Console also. Then hook it all up and give it another testing to make sure everything is still all working as it should.

I suppose another thing I will need to do next is make up a wiring diagram for how I'll need to hook up my whole Voice Projection unit to that Voice Projection button I have on my lower dash, same sort of button found in the P.A.N.P. group of buttons. This way the Switch Pod buttons that I have hooked up to the sound effects generator will only activate the sound board when the "Voice Projection Button" is ON.

Voice Projection Wiring Scheme

I think I have the connections on the circuit board from the 

"Annunciator 2 in 1 5 tone / 3 tone electronic siren with mic." that I got from eBay figured out. I tested the buttons with my Multimeter to see which connection points on the board would give me a continuity reading when each button was pressed. One thing puzzles me a little is that they appear to be momentary buttons but yet when I watched videos on YouTube showing how the unit worked they appeared to be latching buttons, perhaps a pulse from the button temporarily locks a connection somewhere and when the button is activated  again it breaks the connections, not sure about that, or how that will work with the wiring scheme I am thinking of trying out. It's going to be a little experimenting I guess but from just fiddling about with it I think it should work with the simple SPST Relay setup I have worked out in my diagram. Some of the other bits on the board will be relocated like the indicator LED and Mic.

Voice Projection Hand Held Unit Dismantle

I dismantled the hand held unit of the "Annunciator 2 in 1 5 tone / 3 tone electronic siren with mic." It appears to be pretty simple, just like figuring out the Switch Pod Buttons I should be able to do the same here and add wires from the button terminals and run them to the switch of a SPST Relay to duplicated what the buttons are doing on this simple circuit board. The micro or mini button on the ends of the two black wires look to be a simple ground momentary switch, in either case a Relay will do the job for that button too. The side button for the Mic appears to be also a simple micro/mini momentary button so again another simple SPST Relay should do the trick. Now those 4 other micro switches I'm not sure if those are momentary buttons or latching, those may be a bit tricky trying to figure out a good way to use my Switch Pod Buttons for those 4. I suppose the other few things are the indicator LED light, Volume Control Knob, the Mic, those items on the board I will need to think about soldering them off of the board, extending their wires and relocating them somewhere. I mentioned in my last post about the Mic being installed into the upper console somewhere, that is certainly a possibility. I suppose the Volume Control Knob could be located beside the Mic along with the indicator LED light. The Circuit board I could mount in up inside of my Knight Rider Dash securely to another bracket I could glass in somewhere.

It's going to be a bit of mucking about with my Multimeter to figure out what is what for sure on this little circuit board and some playing about with some soldering and finer gauge wires, and some fiddling about with Relays but if I'm not mistaken I think it can be done.