Finalizing The Monitors Installation

I'm far from done working for the day but I figured I would take a quick coffee break and do a little update on what I have done so far for today. Here you can see my LCD monitor video board mounted onto a Lexan plastic mounting board I custom made, took me a little while to come up with a configuration that would work well for mounting in this board. Luckily I was able to add on an additional piece of Lexan plastic to further help mount the video board to the inside of the dash, it also served as a good place to mount the Step-down converter from 12V DC to 5V DC.

I also added on a Molex connector for the power and ground wires for both my LCD screen that will get hooked up to a PC and my GPS unit. The little extra board that came with the LCD screen that has 5 tactile buttons on it for adjusting the LCD screen settings, I added on some 22 AWG wires that also go into the Molex connector. Those wires will go to the bottom buttons of my make shift Space Matt buttons seeing how this little board will be not very accessible in under the dash. I do have them mounted in a way that they can be worked if the dash is ever taken out for servicing at any point. But the lower console Space Matt buttons seem ideally suited for such a function. I'll also hook them up to the V.B. DTMF tone Random Generator.

Also now that the S-1 Monitor Frames have been painted and clear coated I reinstalled the two monitors back into the frame. I just applied a little blue Thread-lock to the threads holding in the circuit boards for the GPS and the LCD Monitor attached my custom Lexan plastic mounting. In a short while before the day is out I'll mount the monitors frame back into the dash. I fired up my air compressor to blow out any dust and debris inside of my dash first though. This afternoon I'm hoping to get the other end of the Molex connector wired up and the Monitors frame back into the dash. Hopefully I'll get the LCD screen's video board all mounted into place too.... we'll see how the rest of the day goes. ;)

Switch Pod Back Access Plates Added

The backs of the Switch Pods have been glassed in and sanded down flat. I was not too concerned about the middle as that part is getting cut out anyways to allow access to the back of the Switches Circuit Boards and wiring.

I made a template out of some thin card stock I had kicking around and traced out two guide lines, the inner line indicates where I will cut out the back of the Pods. The outer line indicates where my aluminum cover plates will rest.

Using the good O'l trusty Dremel tool with a cutting wheel I cut out my access holes on both sides of the Pods. Next I made the aluminum cover plates. I made 4 holes in my card stock template to mark where the screw holes would need to be drilled. Once cut out and drilled the aluminum cover plates were screwed onto the back of the Pod access ports with some short self tapping screws being careful not to over tighten the screws. The aluminum cover plates are secured to the back of the pods very securely. Eventually they will be painted. I will most likely also contact cement onto the back of each cover plate a thin piece of thin high density foam rubber to act as an additional insulation barrier.

Now basically all that's needed is the switches for the Pods, then I can install those. I'll need those before I can cut out the front of the pods for the switches just so as I know what size to cut out my rectangular holes. Then another test fitting off the dash will be in order so I can best determine how my Switch Pods assembly can be glassed onto the 2 TV Dash.

Glassing in The Backs Of The Switch Pods

I have begun the task of glassing in the backs of the Switch Pods using those plastic backs I made and fibre glassing over top of them, basically glassing them securely to the backs of the pods. The stuff sets pretty quick so I've been doing it in small one ounce batches and brushing in my fibre glass matting. It's starting to look pretty good. Soon I'll be able to file and sand it all down and then cut out the access holes at the back that I'll make aluminum access plates for as mentioned in my last post.

Here is a closeup shot of one side of my Switch Pods back in the process of being glassed in. This way you can see how I am going about doing this.

There are some out there I know that think this is a crappy Switch pod, but it's REALLY not! Now this is just my opinion of course but if you like a bit of "Do-It-Yourself" (And who Doesn't) and you are like me pretty crafty and innovative then this pod is perfect for the "Do-It-Yourselfer." 

There are some that think I went a little overboard with the aluminum reinforcing to my Pods as well. But to me knowing that damage can result by accidentally bumping your knee's into the Pods as I have heard some had issues with then to me what is a little foresight into that and taking steps to help prevent that type of potential damage from occurring... again "Just My Opinion" not saying "Go Do It" or anything.... it's just an extra step I feel I should do and would be more comfortable knowing I had done. 

I'll pretty much do the same type of "Over the Top" reinforcing when I get around to glassing the Switch Pods to the 2 TV Dash. Hey this is an expensive hobby and I feel that extra mile is worth going, especially if it helps prevent potential expensive repairs later on. ;)

24 Pin Connector Installed

I have installed the first half of the 24 Pin Connector as part of my Knight Rider 2 TV dash install. Took a while to solder the wires to each of the 24 Pin Connector wires and then heat shrink tube each wire to make sure they were properly insulated. Once done with the connections I had to make new labels for each wire closer to the connector plug so I will be able to identify each wire coming from the dash. There are a few of them I'm pretty sure do not get used but just on the outside chance that one day they might get used it will be nice to know what they are so I'm glad I have taken the time to make sure that I have identified each of the dash wires.

I had to pop out to Canadian Tire to pick up some 3/4" wire protector to wrap the wires up into a nice harness. I zip tied the harness to the plastic of the dash so it will not move around much. I'm not sure where it will be best mounted from there? What I will need to do is install the other part of the 24 Pin Connector to the Knight Rider dash and see where the best location for securing the wire harness will be. For now I just have the end of it draped over the steering column till then.

Gage cluster connectors

Gage cluster connectors detail

I have taken the liberty of identifying am labelling each of the wires on the connectors that connect to the circuit pathways on the back of the gage cluster. I figured I would do this for educational purposes and to help anyone wishing to not use the gage cluster when installing either their Knight Rider dash or any other kind of after market digital dash setups.